21 Oct 2012

KIRKINTILLOCH, LENZIE & DISTRICT CANINE CLUB

in LAWRIE & SYMINGTON AGRICULTURAL CENTRE LANARK

CULSEANDANES BRUTUS BLUE 

GREAT DANE GRADUATE 3RD
GREAT DANE OPEN 3RD 

Picture taken at Alva the Scottish Great Dane Open Show 
(Really need to get more photos of Leo) 


THANKS TO THE JUDGE MS  FRAN KAYE FOR THINKING SO HIGHLY OF LEO



JUNIOR HANDLING 
12-16 AGE GROUP
ALAN AND  CULSEANDANES BRUTUS BLUE 2ND
QUALIFIED ONCE AGAIN FOR THE SEMI FINALS AT RICHMOND SEPTEMBER 2013 DID EXCEPTIONALLY WELL TODAY AS THIS WAS A DIFFERENT DOG FOR ALAN AND HIS 3RD SHOW OVERALL.

THANK YOU TO MISS TRACY HAMILTON FOR THINKING SO HIGHLY OF LEO ON THE DAY. 

13 Oct 2012

Our Breed Standard




GREAT DANE


A Breed Standard is the guideline which describes the ideal characteristics, temperament and appearance of a breed and ensures that the breed is fit for function. Absolute soundness is essential. Breeders and judges should at all times be careful to avoid obvious conditions or exaggerations which would be detrimental in any way to the health, welfare or soundness of this breed. From time to time certain conditions or exaggerations may be considered to have the potential to affect dogs in some breeds adversely.

GENERAL APPEARANCE
Very muscular, strongly though elegantly built, with look of dash and daring, of being ready to go anywhere and do anything. Head and neck carried high, tail in line with back, or slightly upwards, but never curled over hindquarters. Elegance of outline and grace of form most essential.

CHARACTERISTICS
Alert expression, powerful, majestic action displaying dignity.

TEMPERAMENT
Kindly without nervousness, friendly and outgoing.

HEAD AND SKULL
Head, taken altogether, gives idea of great length and strength of jaw. Muzzle broad, skull proportionately narrow, so that whole head when viewed from above and in front, has appearance of equal breadth throughout. Length of head in proportion to height of dog. Length from nose to point between eyes about equal or preferably of greater length than from this point to back of occiput. Skull flat, slight indentation running up centre, occipital peak not prominent. Decided rise or brow over the eyes but not abrupt stop between them; face well chiselled, well filled in below eyes with no appearance of being pinched: fore face long, of equal depth throughout. Cheeks showing as little lumpiness as possible, compatible with strength. Underline of head, viewed in profile, runs almost in a straight line from corner of lip to corner of jawbone, allowing for fold of lip, but with no loose skin hanging down. Bridge of nose very wide, with slight ridge where cartilage joins bone (this is a characteristic of breed). Nostrils large, wide and open, giving blunt look to nose. Lips hang squarely in front, forming right angle with upper line of fore face.

EYES
Fairly deep set, not giving the appearance of being round, of medium size and preferably dark. Wall, or odd eyes permissible in harlequins.

Ears
Triangular, medium size, set high on skull and folded forward

Mouth
Teeth level. Jaws strong with a perfect, regular and complete scissor bite, i.e. upper teeth closely overlapping lower teeth and set square to the jaws.

Neck
Neck long, well arched, quite clean and free from loose skin, held well up, well set in shoulders, junction of head and neck well defined.

Forequarters
Shoulders muscular, not loaded, well sloped back, with elbows well under body. Forelegs perfectly straight with big flat bone.

Body
Very deep, brisket reaching elbow, ribs well sprung, belly well drawn up. Back and loins strong, latter slightly arched.

Hindquarters
Extremely muscular, giving strength and galloping power. Second thigh long and well developed, good turn of stifle, hocks set low, turning neither in nor out.

Feet
Cat-like, turning neither in nor out. Toes well arched and close, nails strong and curved. Nails preferably dark in all coat colours, except harlequins, where light are permissible.

Tail
Thick at the root, tapering towards end, reaching to or just below hocks. Carried in straight line level with back, when dog is moving, slightly curved towards end, but never curling or carried over back.

Gait/Movement:
Action lithe, springy and free, covering ground well. Hocks move freely with driving action, head carried high.

Coat:
Short dense and sleek-looking, never inclined to roughness.


Blues: colour varies from light grey to deep slate, the nose and eyes may be blue also.

Mantle: Black and white with a solid, black blanket extending over the body. Ideally - black skull with white muzzle, white blaze optional, whole white collar preferred, a white chest, white on part or whole of the forelegs and hind legs, white tipped black tail. Nose always black, eyes and nails preferably dark

Harlequins: pure white underground with preferably all black patches or all blue patches, having appearance of being torn. Light nails permissible. In harlequins, wall eyes, pink noses, or butterfly noses permissible but not desirable.

Brindles:.must be striped, ground colour from lightest buff to deepest orange, stripes always black, eyes and nails preferably dark, dark shadings on head and ears acceptable.

Fawns: colour varies from lightest buff to deepest orange, dark shadings on head and ears acceptable, eyes and nails preferably dark.

Blacks: Black is black.
In all above colours white is only permissible on chest and feet, but it is not desirable even there. Nose always black, except in blues and harlequins. Eyes and nails preferably dark.

Size:
Minimum height of an adult dog over eighteen months: 76 cms (30 ins); bitches: 71 cms (28 ins). Weight, minimum weight over eighteen months: dogs: 54 kgs (120 lbs); bitches: 46 kgs (100 lbs). I don't think you are penalised these days over height and weight unless overly skinny or not walking or running correctly.

Faults:
Any departure from the foregoing points should be considered a fault and the seriousness with which the fault should be regarded should be in exact proportion to its degree and its effect upon the health and welfare of the dog and on the dog’s ability to preform its traditional work.

Note
Male animals should have two apparently normal testicles fully descended into the scrotum.

You can have your dog spayed or neutered in the show ring nowadays and as long as you tell the KC.

Courtsey goes to the KC for this.
Photos mine and yes I am a Mantle Snob. 

10 Oct 2012

The Great Danes 100 Colours (well some)

As we already know there are 6 known KC colours for Danes for the show ring. 
Ok there is in fact 7 colours now as we in UK can show blue Harlequins which are winning at Champ level.

the reason for the first three is this is my chosen colours over the rest. 










but did you know there is 100 colours in this breed, of course most are mismarks but make excellent pets of course. 

WARNING: Mismarks are NOT rare colours so don't be fooled by the words rare and exotic or even the breeder asking for more money for these rare, exotic colours because its lies.

Mismarks cant be shown but make brilliant pets.

What is your favourite mismark? I love the full merle. Grey blanket and the torn black and grey patches. 



Here are a few of them and I have to say I have seen some of these in real life and in pictures








A diverse set of colours don't you think 


Merles, Merle mantles, mantle pi, merle pi, harli pi seem to dominant our market mainly these are from harli x harli and harli x mantle matings.

I am trying to find actual pictures of some of these and mainly it seems they are American and not from the UK at all. 


Useful fact
Merles came first before Harlequins.


Fawns may have become popular because of scooby doo, but he is in fact a mismark.


Also some folks are saying he is a chocolate if so this mean that Scooby wouldnt exist as both chocolate and black cant mix together.


Chocolate;  is a dilute of black but so is blue so my question is who came first or even is a chocolate a dilute of black at all but the darker hew of the fawn and brindle which then became diluted over the years. Which is possible I would say.


Lilac: is there also but again this comes from the blues as in less pigment and can be shown as it will be classed as a blue but lightly coloured. I have to be honest here I have never ever seen one yet. Yes I put yet because I will most likely see one in the future no doubt.

Genetics do play a big part here for your colours solid and dilutes of course.

What colours have you seen and what ones haven't you seen or is it is that really a Dane at all.














6 Oct 2012

PAISLEY & DISTRICT CANINE SOCIETY

AT MAGNUM CENTRE IRVINE

CULSEANDANES BRUTUS BLUE
GREAT DANE GRADUATE 3RD
GREAT DANE OPEN 3RD

CULSEANDANES VIPER'S TALE
GREAT DANE RESERVE
PEGGY MCADAM STAKES OPEN RESERVE



THE PARLOUR 

JUNIOR HANDLING 
12-16 AGE GROUP
ALAN AND CULSEANDANES VIPER'S TALE  3RD
QUALIFIED FOR THE SEMI FINALS AT RICHMOND 2013




                                                     


29 Sept 2012

Fawn Great Dane

Fun facts about Fawn Great Danes. 



Coat goes from light gold fawn to deep gold fawn. 



Black mask is very desired. 



Small white marks on chest and toes are undesirable.



facts fawns are diliutes of either black or blue or so history tells us. 



fact scooby doo isnt a fawn but a missmark fawn pie.



fact no one knows if scooby was in fact male or female. 



fur on this colour is softer than the harlequins but nearly the same on the blues. 



Did you know your fawn can throw a blue or black in the mix even if colour pure bred for 10 generations or even more. 





22 Sept 2012

GROOMING



Conveniently, Great Danes are a very low odour breed, except of course for the farting, but you already knew that. 

Bathing

Bathing these mammoths is not a major necessity, which works in our favour, no need to bother, or budget for trips to the dog salon! Frequent bathing will also strip essential oils from your dog's coat and since dry skin affects many Danes, keep baths to an (as needed) basis. 

If grubby a fannel in soapy water wiped over her will suffice. More like a sponge bath to take of the grubby bits like we do daily but once a week will do for your Dane and when going to a show. 


Shedding & Hair Loss

On the average, Great Danes shed like any short-haired breed, that is of course, if they are not suffering from skin problems, or allergies. You may notice quite a bit more hair around the house than would be left by a smaller short haired dog, Logically, we are dealing with much more surface area of dog. 

Slight noticeable dander or dry skin is not uncommon with certain colour varieties by the way. Just keep an eye on it. 

A daily once over with a brush will greatly reduce the amount of hair left on your carpet. We found that grooming a Great Dane using a rubber brush works best. 

Mine comes with a handle much like a horse one in fact I have been gifted one that is for a horse but is lovely for a Dane too. 

Head & Face

The head and face require slightly more upkeep. Great Danes seem to differ with regards to drool or slobber. Although there always seems to be a touch of wetness on the jowls, we find that the slimy, white slobber typically forms when they're on a scent, other canine or animal more specifically.

A trip to the park could make quite a mess of you Dane's beautiful face, carrying a towel is a wise choice. You may also need to tidy up a bit after your Dane drinks, seems they haven't quite perfected this skill as of yet. 

Eyes may build mucus from time to time such as a road trip, with your dog hanging its head out the window catching the breeze. This mucus is normal and nothing to worry about. If weeping though wipe with a flannel but if it doesnt clear up pop to the vet for a check up. 

Ears should be cleaned once a week. Baby wipes work here because of the size of the lugs. Do not scrape the ears but rub gently as they seem to love this and will emit lovely sounds. Do not go to deep in either and if a lot of wax use an ear cleaner to soften it all up and go at the ears a few hours later. 

Teeth 
Teeth are much easier to maintain than with a smaller breed, they're way bigger and not cramped into a tiny little mouth. Grab hold and pull up on the convenient jowl handle. What a nice unobstructed view of those choppers. Watch for tarter or food built up in the creases and crevasses, the rear molars seem to hold the most debris.

Getting your dog used to a toothbrush and teeth care early on will make it a fun, tasty experience for years to come. Those that feed raw or offer a good marrow bone to gnaw on will most likely never need anything else.

Great Danes are pretty tolerant of head maintenance, eye, ear, and face cleanup is a breeze. Teeth brushing may take some practice yet if started early, as a puppy, should go easy as well.

Feet, Paws, Nails

Your Danes paws and nails require proper care. A split toenail, splinter, or cut, can have a detrimental effect on the well being of your dog. The giant, heavyweight Great Dane is more susceptible to paw injuries than a smaller breed, their feet take the brunt force of their powerful strides.

Ever wonder how much pressure your Great Dane puts on its feet? Let him step on yours.  A small sharp object such as a piece of glass may only slightly cut or scratch a small dogs paw pad. Under the pressure of a pouncing Dane, it can cause a major gash and need surgery. 

Keep the nails as short as possible! With Dane nail care, we always try to cut as close to the quick as possible. If you don't want to do this find a good vet that is used to Danes or at least large breeds. 


Whatever method you choose begin Dane nail care early, were serious. If you begin while your dog is a young puppy, you will have no problems in the future with a mature, powerful adult.


Dogs are not in pain when you cut their nails, even if they bleed. Yet a dog that's not accustomed to the procedure will make you believe that you're killing them. Wait and see, neglect nail care and it's going to take you, your partner, and your neighbour to clip your adult males toenails if even then in fact he most likely will have to be sedated for his nails to be trimmed every 3-6 months. Which can work out very expensive. 

Tip: Many savvy owners choose a late hour for doggy maintenance. Grooming a Great Dane, especially nail care, will go a little easier while your Dane is in a deep sleep.


Important

Foot and paw care is probably the most important aspect of grooming a Great Dane. Neglect this department and further problems can develop. A Dane with a painful or injured paw will make changes to its posture, gait, and weight distribution. This can lead to orthopaedic problems or even a ligament injury.

Start with your young puppy with all the Great Dane grooming practices, make leg and paw rubs a nightly affair. Everything is easier with a young Dane and will only cause much grief if left for later.

A nice thing to do every month is to do a once over on your Dane as in check teeth, ears and body much like they do in the show ring. Leg rubs are allowed and an ear stritch too. In fact if you miss this they will let you know if you have been doing it for awhile and forget. 

In winter months wipe your Danes feet when he comes in as most pavements have grit on them and can irritate your dogs feet. We usually have a basin of warm water at the ready a Dane does love a pampering. 

If a rambler with your Dane always check the feet when you come in as thorns, bits of twigs and such like can be nasty of not noticed. 

HAPPY TRAILS. 





8 Sept 2012

SCOTTISH GREAT DANE CLUB

OPEN SHOW AT COCHRANE HALL, ALVA 
   
JUDGE IAN SHADBOLT 

CULSEANDANES BRUTUS BLUE 

GREAT DANE PUPPY DOG 2ND

Critique for Culseandanes Brutus Blue by Mr Ian Shadbolt
Heavier built than 1, 

broad in backskull and short in foreface. 
Good depth to chest, 
and plenty of spring of rib. 
Heavier boned than 1,
shorter coupled, 
but carried tail too high.


GREAT DANE JUNIOR DOG 3RD

GREAT DANE SPECIAL OPEN
FOR HARLI,BLACKS,BLUES AND MANTLE DOGS V.H.C

GREAT DANE OPEN DOG V.H.C








VIPER'S TALE FROM CULSEANDANES

GREAT DANE GRADUATE DOG 3RD
Our hall of rosettes on the day.